• 作者:
• 來源: 展翅調酒學校
• 日期: 2014-11-08
• 瀏覽次數: 2842 次

倫敦調酒師Matt Whiley是Talented Mr Fox幕后的雞尾酒大師,今年他在倫敦新開的酒吧大受關注。是的,不出意外,這又是一處精心打造的現代派實驗調酒根據地,同時也是雙關文字游戲的天堂。Whiley之前調制過的雞尾酒包括由凈化豬血及“黑布丁蒸餾物”制成的血腥瑪麗、以凈化酪乳和“煙熏骨髓” 調制的Bone Shaker、還有由人參利口酒和“甜玉米和玉米片蒸餾物”制成的White Ape。這里的酒飲同樣瘋狂,同樣依賴倫敦調酒界的標志性技法。比如由Tio Pepe的雪莉酒、“零點糖”、“黃瓜磷酸鹽”和干姜水制成的Riot Cup Number One;以經典越南米粉為靈感,由Pho spirit、白菜和青檸葉制成的Pho Money Pho Problems(Whiley保證這款雞尾酒里決不含肉);以Peg + Patriot烤冰激凌利口酒和起泡葡萄酒Cocchi Brut調制而成的Rice Rice Baby;由Koniks Tail伏特加、“酵母提取物蒸餾物”以及“鹽酥炸橄欖”制成的Beauty and the Yeast。表面上看,這個酒單似乎偏愛味道鮮美的雞尾酒。但Whiley堅稱,盡管倫敦人的味蕾已 經進化并愿意接受更多的風味,找到平衡永遠是關鍵。人在倫敦的他告訴我們:“我不會說這個酒單偏向美味雞尾酒,但我相信酒單應該要達到平衡,我覺得美味雞尾酒和其 他苦味、柑橘味和甜味雞尾酒一樣,是酒單不可分割的一部分。”除了調酒科學之外,Whiley認為Peg + Patriot酒吧不會成為那種端著架子一本正經,如宗教般嚴肅的酒吧,而是一家“充滿樂趣和友好氛圍的鄰家酒吧。”他說他會將酒單制作的簡單又直接。“我們試著將酒單中那種極客式的雞尾酒描述除去,這樣就不會造成我們和客人之間的距離感。但如果他們感興趣的話,我們將展示我們調酒的設備,并非常樂意向他們講解整個過程。”

London bartender Matt Whiley, the cocktail savant behind the Talented Mr Fox, has opened one of the most buzzed-about bars in London this year. And, yes, as expected, it’s another meticulously wrought stronghold of modernist, hocus-pocus bartending and pun-heavy wordplay. Some of Whiley’s former cocktails, remember, include a Bloody Mary made with clarified pig’s blood and “black pudding distillate”; the Bone Shaker, a combination of clarified buttermilk and “smoked bone marrow”; and the White Ape, made from ginseng liqueur and “sweetcorn and cornflake distillate”. Here, the drinks are no less barmy or indeed any less reliant on techniques now so central to the London id. Consider the Riot Cup Number One, with Tio Pepe sherry, “O’Clock Sugar”, “cucumber phosphate” and ginger ale; the Pho Money Pho Problems, a rework of the classic Vietnamese noodle soup, made from “Pho spirit”, pak choi and lime leaf (“there’s no meat in the cocktail,” promises Whiley); the Rice Rice Baby, a wind-up of “Peg + Patriot roasted ice cream liqueur” and Cocchi Brut, a sparkling wine; or the Beauty and the Yeast, a mix of Koniks Tail vodka and “yeast extract distillate” that comes with a “fried olive brine crisp.” On the face of it, the menu seems to show a bias for savoury flavours. But Whiley insists that despite advances in the London palate, that now embraces a broader spectrum of flavour profiles, it’s always about finding an even keel. “I wouldn’t say the menu leans towards savoury flavours,” he tells us, from London. “But I do believe menus should be balanced and I see savoury drinks just as integral to our menus as bitter, citrus and sweet cocktails.” Despite the science, Whiley reckons the Peg + Patriot does not set out to offer an uptight, quasi-religious cocktail experience but is instead a “fun, friendly neighbourhood bar.” He keeps the menu short and straightforward, he says. “We try to keep the geekery away from the [cocktail descriptions] so we don’t alienate any of the guests. If they’re interested, though, we have the equipment on show and we’re happy to talk them through the process.”

?Salt Beef Sazerac

·33ml 咸牛肉蒸餾物*
·15ml 黑麥威士忌
·15ml 干邑
·2滴 貝嬌苦精
·2.5ml 糖
將所有原料加入攪拌瓶,攪勻后倒入放有冰塊的洛克杯,以芥菜葉蒸餾物裝飾。**
*將倫敦本土商店Bagel Bake出品的咸牛肉芥菜硬面包圈和中性谷物酒精混合并冷泡三小時,以蒸發器蒸餾;用水切割。
**用中性谷物酒精冷泡芥菜葉48小時。用蒸發器蒸餾;用水切割。

·33ml Salt beef distillate*
·15ml Rye whisky
·15ml Cognac
·2ds Peychaud’s bitters
·2.5ml Sugar
Add all ingredients to a mixing jar, stir and serve in a rocks glass; garnish with mustard leaf distillate.**
*Blend a salt-beef bagel with mustard purchased from local London shop Bagel Bake with neutral grain spirit; cold infuse for three hours then distil with evaporator; cut with water.
**Cold infuse mustard leaves with neutral grain spirit for 48 hours; distil in evaporator; cut with water.

Peg + Patriot / 英國倫敦愛國者廣場Town Hall Hotel / Town Hall Hotel, Patriot Square, London / +44 020 8709 4528 / www.pegandpatriot.com